Narciso Rodriguez

It’s rare to see a big chunky sweater at Narciso Rodriguez, as we did when the second model out emerged in hand-knit black cashmere with a wrap neckline and an asymmetrical hem. Rodriguez is an exacting tailor; his jackets are precision instruments, engineered for a perfect fit. It means that his clothes are quite formal in tone—you don’t wear Narciso to Sunday brunch with the girls. Or at least, you didn’t until now. Rodriguez showed his sweater with an asymmetrical hem silk skirt, but paired with vintage Levi’s it could be just the thing for your weekly ritual green juice and avocado toast.

There was more where that casually chic sweater came from. Rodriguez had a pair of wrap coats, the laid-back spirit of which was accentuated by their baked-in plissé wrinkles. Another group of jackets and coats was made from the reverse side of wool jacquard so that grids of floating yarns were visible. They looked almost like blankets. Clutched in the crooks of arms, the collection’s new bags followed the same soft, unstructured principle. In the past, Rodriguez has done mostly frame bags and architectural clutches. Change was definitely afoot; there were even pointy-toed metallic oxfords.

His other interest this season was bias cutting; that doesn’t necessarily qualify as news with Rodriguez, but the vigor with which he pursued it does. The panne velvet of the closing slip dress looked like liquid; it’ll feel like a dream to wear. He also tried bias cutting suede, a tricky proposition; thanks to its weight, the three-dimensional results were almost sculptural. Best of the lot was a series of narrow shifts paneled in bronze or pewter in abstract shapes that resembled letters. Swap out those shiny oxfords for heels, and you’ve got yourself a date night dress.